Author Topic: Acclimation of animals...reminder  (Read 1962 times)

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Offline Ed

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Acclimation of animals...reminder
« on: August 14, 2010, 04:57:43 PM »
Acclimation Guide
  
One of the most important aspects of a healthy aquarium is proper acclimation of your new arrivals.  The water used to pack the animal is going to be different than the water in your aquarium.  For creatures used to living in a vast and stable ocean, those differences can be quite a shock and sometimes deadly.  The most acclimation factors are temperature, PH and Salinity.  The best equalizer for these is time.  Spreading those changes over time allows your new animal to gently make its adjustment to the conditions in your aquarium.  Following the procedure bellow is a required part of our livestock guarantee and will ensure the best chance for a full and healthy life for your new pet.

Quarantine Tanks: We highly recommend their use to reduce the possibility of introducing disease and parasites into your aquarium.

Tools Needed:

Drip Line
Stress Guard
Acclimation steps
Sterile Styrofoam Container
additional salt water
Scissors / knife Ė to open bags
There are two basic methods for acclimation: Float Method & Drip Method. The Drip Method is considered the best for sensitive animals and that is why we recommend this exclusively.  We are committed to the health of your animal and have included the tools you will need to do this.  Because we have separate holding systems fish, invertebrates & corals need to be acclimated separately. Please be present during acclimation to avoid spillage.

Drip Method: (for fish and corals)

Turn off aquarium lights and keep them off for a few hours after introduction of your new animals. Also dim lights in room.
Open all boxes to ensure that all animals have arrived safely, bags are intact and you have received a complete order (do not do this in bright light).
Separate fish, inverts and corals into their own groups. Do not acclimate any of these 3 groups together (same body of water) because they likely do not share the same water parameters. If you donít have enough styros, do one group at a time in the order they are listed above.
Float as many bags as will comfortably fit in your aquarium for 15-20 min.  This will bring the temperature of the water in the bag to what the tank is. Do not open bags.
The Styrofoam box ďstyroĒ sent inside the cardboard box makes a great sterile acclimation container and never gets confused as a cleaning bucket. If a bucket is used it must be sterile (no soaps or other chemicals). New 3-5 gallon buckets are fine, just rinse them and mark them for aquarium use only.
Remove first group of animals and place them into the styro. Cut open the tops of each bag and empty water gently into styro. You may need to prop up one side in the beginning to allow water to submerge the animal(s). Repeat process for all.  The level of the water should not be more than half way up the styro- if it is, split up the acclimation into multiple styros.
If possible, it is a good idea to cover the top with something so that fish donít jump out and to reduce light.
Prepare your drip line by sticking the suction cup on the top or front of the aquarium so that one end is submerged (in the aquarium water). Tie two loose knots somewhere in the middle of the tubing.  This will control the amount of flow by tightening/loosening.
Begin a siphon by sucking on the end you will be placing into one of the styros.  Start by having the knots tighter, then loosen to achieve desired flow (2-4 drops per second).  You want the water volume in the styro to double in 30-60 minuets. Remember it is better to fill slowly than to fill too fast.
Keep an eye on things so that nothing spills onto floor and you can adjust flow if needed
Once water volume doubles, discard half the water from the styro and then repeat process. If you plug the end of the tube and put it into tank with the other end, it should keep its siphon. For the next round- make sure itís secure.
Repeat this process two to three times.
Net one fish at a time to prevent scratches or wounds, place gently get into tank.
Corals & Anemones- gently place into tank (following placement tips listed below and on our website product page).  We recommend using sterile rubber gloves because some are allergic to the toxins they can release plus it ensures clean hands and prevents you from being stung by certain corals and inverts.
Congrats- thatís it.  Wait a few hours or next day before feeding.
 Drip method (Invertebrates: Snails, Crabs)

These animals will ship in much less water and are therefore easily acclimated in their original bag.
cut open (or off) the top of the bag to allow water from your drip line to be added and then secure them so they donít tip over when more water is added
Often there is newspaper or paper towel to keep them moist.  Create a drip volume that adds maybe one drop or less per second (see above).  This should create about an inch of water over a period of one hour. For these creatures slower truly is better.
You do not have to discard any water like above. After one hour, simply add the animals to the sand bed by hand (do not put acclimation water into tank).
Tips:

never expose bags to bright light
always have enough mixed salt water on hand
acclimate everything Ė even if it looks dead (many animals can recover if properly acclimated)
be patient
Behavior During Acclimation:

Fish-   will usually breath heavily and some will lay on their side or at the bottom of the aquarium (Wrasses sometimes will play dead- continue with full acclimation)
Corals & Anemones- will deflate/shrink, these might take hours or days to fully open and color up.
Snails & Crabs- may not open or move for days at a time- after this time if you suspect death pick them out of tank (if they smell bad, they're dead Ė donít put them back)
Starfish-  may not move for days, pick them up and look for signs of disintegration

 
  
 
 
 
 
« Last Edit: August 14, 2010, 04:59:41 PM by Ed »
come over and see..:)

Offline jimbo

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Re: Acclimation of animals...reminder
« Reply #1 on: August 17, 2010, 11:12:31 AM »
hi, just a added note. testing the water the fish or corals come in is a big help. most wholesalers pack thier fish in pure oxygen so they will be good for 48 hours. some more some less. I found those cheap little test strips are good enough to see the condition of the water. you will find most is high in ammonia some are blistering high. if you run into one of those it is better to add water faster to delute. Plus you should remember that pure oxygen bleeds out of the water really fast so make sure your drip is making surface movement to help with the lack of air in bag now that you have opened it. nice topic ed   
                                             jimbo 8)