Another advice thread (converting fish only to reef)

Beau is hosting the January Meeting this coming Saturday the 14th at 6PM.  It will be BYOB as well as a snack to share and raffle items are always welcome.  It has been requested that there be “NO SHOES” on the carpet due to it being a whitish color.

He doesn’t have a tank to view but we will have plenty to discuss in hopes that it will get the NEW YEAR off to a good start.  The annual membership fees are due, so now would be a good time to get them in to our Treasurer Stacey Hahn.   Fees are $20 per individual or $25 per family

Attendance was low at the election meeting in November and no votes were taken at December’s meeting so we have decided to take votes for anyone that didn’t get the opportunity in November and will be attending this meeting.  
We will add the votes to November’s ballots and the announcement will be made during the meeting so we can go forward.
NOMINATIONS:
President:  Jim & Nacho
V. President: Ed, Bo & Daniel Leigey
Treasurer: Stacey
Secretary: Carmen & Angie

Let’s hope the New Year brings new members, returning members and new ideas.  The club is always willing to take suggestions to get the most out of the hobby we all enjoy.

Please PM Nate C. by clicking here for directions if you are not a club member.  

Club members can click here to go to the club member only forum to get directions.

Hope to see you all there!

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[rmcconn]

All,

   O.k., I'm going to convert my fish only 55 gal to a reef, then setup my 65 hex to fish only (actually Dejah's idea).  I must add this will be done slowly as I know better than to jump without looking and patience is a must.  So, first upgrade is lights.  Considering PC lighting @ 260 watts (Coralife lunar aqualight or Current Orbit) this should allow us to get into corals given all that I've been reading, still more to go and even more to absorb (reason I'm looking for advice).  I know there will be limitations on what I can keep and will continue researching and learning from anyone who will teach.

   Next upgrade will be filtration and I'm kinda in the dark here.  I'm not really sure what is required for reef, as I've been running only fish for 10 years or so.  I am currently using a Penguin Bio-wheel 330, small skimmer, plus additional internal filter for water flow.  This allows me to keep the ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate all at 0 (o.k. nitrate sometimes hits 2.5).  That's all well and fine but I know there is more to keeping corals etc. happy.  FYI, I was running a wet/dry and venturi skimmer on my 65 gal hex so could convert that to the reef but was going to use it again when the hex goes back into operation.  Had an overlfow and had to vacate the hex in a hurry.

   I know this isn't that dis-similar from some of the other threads, and I've done massive reading here prior to posting.  But now I'm looking for member opinions to my plans, which are still developing.  So any and all advice is appreciated.

   See you at the next meeting,

Ron

[angelscrx]

First suggestion is get 175w metal halides for sps corals.  The 175 should be plenty on your 55g.  Get a sump with a refugium for macro alae for natural filtration.  Mechanical filters don't always work as well on complete reef systems.  You'll want to supplement the halides with actinics if you get 10k or less.  The PCs should work fine with actinics.  You really shouldn't need actinics if you go with 14k or higher bulbs.  Two maximum MHs should cover the space of the 55g.  I hope that helps or points you in the right direction.

[Les]

As to the filtration question, the best thing you can do is skim skim and even skim some more. Buy or build the biggest skimmer you can get. Angel is right on the money for the lighting and the sump/refugium. I can only add that the bigger the sump the better. You will find that the largest systems out there are the easiest to keep at steady conditions.

[tyler5g]

Live rock, refugium and skimmer is most important for filtering, and I am with Angel, I would go with a couple of 175MH with actinic supplement.  You also might consider a UV sterilizer for the system.  With that size tank a 12-15 watt unit would probably suffice.

[rmcconn]

O.k., this helps but it fosters another lighting question.  I was looking at 260W PC to get the coverage over the tank and the light density up in the realm of 5 W/gal.  So in going to MH should I be looking at two 175W for each end (tank is 48" long, standard 55 gal) or can a single 250W MH fixture cover both?  I've been looking at fixtures that offer 250W and actinic supplements or could go with single 150W pendants or clamp-ons.

As far as filtration sounds like I need to adapt my wet/dry to the new system as it has a 20 gal sump and a much larger skimmer.  Not a problem, hate seeing it sit ideal like the 65 hex, just need to budget for fish only filter upgrade.  I realized live rock was a must and had considered a refugium but that's all new to me.

Keep the advice coming, and I'll continue researching.

Thanks,

   Ron

[Rico]

Ron

My first reef tank was a 55 with two 175 watt MH and two 40 watt actinic tubes.  It was a great tank that ran for many years.  I had a 10 or 20  gal tank under the stand for a sump and later added a refugium. The skimmer was a turbofloter.  The canopy was about 16" tall which allowed the MH lights to be high enough from the water that I did not need a chiller.  With the cheap spider MH reflectors you can count on a 2' coverage area for each MH lamp.  Also with the std 40 watt actinic bulbs less heat was generated.  This is a good way to start since you have the 55.

Rick

[dakota's dad]

I have a 75 that I started with a 400 mh and found that there is a big fan shaped shadow from the center brace. just food for thought.

Paul

[angelscrx]

Yep I agree with Rick on this one too.  One light would leave shadows on the ends of the tank.  Skim, skim, skim is best for filtration.   Since Rick had this set up before he can give the best advice.   I had a 55g with pcs and didn't really like the coral colors much.  Hope that helps