SPS's RTN

Beau is hosting the January Meeting this coming Saturday the 14th at 6PM.  It will be BYOB as well as a snack to share and raffle items are always welcome.  It has been requested that there be “NO SHOES” on the carpet due to it being a whitish color.

He doesn’t have a tank to view but we will have plenty to discuss in hopes that it will get the NEW YEAR off to a good start.  The annual membership fees are due, so now would be a good time to get them in to our Treasurer Stacey Hahn.   Fees are $20 per individual or $25 per family

Attendance was low at the election meeting in November and no votes were taken at December’s meeting so we have decided to take votes for anyone that didn’t get the opportunity in November and will be attending this meeting.  
We will add the votes to November’s ballots and the announcement will be made during the meeting so we can go forward.
NOMINATIONS:
President:  Jim & Nacho
V. President: Ed, Bo & Daniel Leigey
Treasurer: Stacey
Secretary: Carmen & Angie

Let’s hope the New Year brings new members, returning members and new ideas.  The club is always willing to take suggestions to get the most out of the hobby we all enjoy.

Please PM Nate C. by clicking here for directions if you are not a club member.  

Club members can click here to go to the club member only forum to get directions.

Hope to see you all there!

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[angelscrx]

Ok here is my next major set back!   Augh!!!!!

All of my parameters are stable.  Same as my 55g, temp is stable, MHs are only coming on for two hours per side (temporary I need a chiller), but my SPS's have all started bleaching (RTN).  I have fragged and the frags are bleaching.  I don't know what is causing it?  Could be shock but I don't know since I used water from the 55g to cycle the 150g.  All live rock was cured and sand was dried.

Also my CL pump is generating heat anywhere from 2-3 degrees.  I have it off for now.  Ed suggested it might be the plumbing causing undue restriction meaning heat.  I think I have it figured out so I am going to buy more plumbing and redo it tomorrow.

This is really depressing but I know it will all be fine in the end.  Any help with the RTN would be really appreciated.

[Rico]

Angel,

It is really hard to say what is the root cause.  These are the things I would check first.

PH
Phosphates
Nitrates
Magnesium
Temp
CA
ALK

If you can, run you water through a Carbon filter.  It will help keep the water clean.

As for the RTN, is it starting at the top tips, or at the base and going up?  If it is at the top, your lighting may be the cause.  If at the bottom.... well who knows.  Are you running RowaPhos in your reactor?  If so you might try taking that out of the system.

In an attempt to save the frags,  give them a dip in tank water (1 quart) with about 10 to 15 drops of Lugols Iodine mixed into the water.  Use a turkey baster to blast the Lugols treated water onto the frags concentrating at the newest RTN area.  Leave the frags in this water for 3-5 min max, then rinse frag with water from the seaswirl in your tank and put down low but in a location that will provide fair current.

If you are still having problems and want to save the frag we can try to revive the frag in my tank.  BTW the frag I got from you a couple of weeks ago is growing well and showing nice color.

Rick

[Les]

How high of heat and for how long? I have seen my old tank hit 90 during the day with no signs of stress. Of course the temp did come down at night.

By the way, aren't you using mag drive pumps and not direct drive??
That may be some of the heat issue.

[angelscrx]

Les, Yes the pumps are mag drive so yes they are part if the issue.  The temp never got over 82.5 degrees for a period of more than a few hours if that.  

Rick my levels are:
PH : 8.2
Phosphates : .1 (normal reading in my tank always, even in the 55g)
Nitrates .10
Magnesium:  Don't test for this
Temp 80.5
CA 450
ALK 4.23

I thought it might have been the lights too but the RTN is at the bottom to middle.  I am thinking it could be the current blowing the tissue off as I looked at it today.
I am gladd to hear that the frag is doing well.  When I tank gets corrected myabe it will do fine in my tank.  

PS I lost my little blue crocea clam today! :cry:

[Rico]

Angel,

Are you sure about the phosphate levels?  .1 is way too high!  it should be at .01

the nitrates are a bit high but if the corals were healthy to start with, they should be ok.  If they were in a weakend state, then have to deal with the nitrates, that could possibly contribute to the problem you are having.

I would not worry about the temp, the corals should be ok up to 85.  It its the rapid change in getting to that temp that would induce more stress.  If your tank got there slowly, it will be ok.

I doubt too much flow, unless you were putting them 6" from the closed loop discharge nozzels.

I would highly recommned a major water chage, i.e. a 30 gallon.  Maybe do this every other day or 3 days for 2 weeks and try to flush out any conaminents that may be in your water.

When my tank went down on me last fall, I changed out over 300 gallons of water in about 2 weeks.  Lost several corals, had to frag out many large colonies, but did save 80% of the tank.  It was very frustrating.  I believe my problem was a result of using water stored for a long time in a container that I did not know the history of.

Hope this helps
Rick

[angelscrx]

Rick yeah sorry phosphates are .01 not .1.  My nitrates have always been at .10 no matter how many water changes I did.  Might be the test kit though.  Like I said I used nothing but the RODI water and then some water from the 55g to help speed up the cycle.  I did not have any stored water.  I have not have any spikes in ammonia or anything.

Corals are more than 6" in from the returns.

How about the plumbing for the pumps?  Do you think if I replumb it to the outside of the stand with less bends I could reduce the heat?

Thanks all for the help!

[angelscrx]

Oh yeah starngest thing!  I have a monti digitata in the main display that seems to be going south but the frags in the sump seem happy as get out?  The polyps are fully extended and they are under two 55w PCs.

Any ideas about that?  Will keep watching them.

[Rico]

Sounds like the lights may be the source of that issue.  Try puting them on the bottom in a cave or shaded area.  see how they do there.

It is hard to say on the rework of the plumbing.  I kinda doubt it, unless you have some 90's or T's installed right at the pump discharge port.  Different pumps will put different amounts of heat into a system.  My pumps will keep my tank at 78 all night long without the lights.  You could try turning off the closed loop for a day and see how much temp drop you have.   Are the pumps hot to the touch?

Rick

[angelscrx]

The pumps are not hot to the touch.  I have been keeping the CL pump off for now because it will take the temp up pretty quick.  PLus I had the leak on the SCWD which I think is finally fixed .

I just ordered a chiller so I can run the lights all at the same time.  I moved all the remaining corals to the sump before I read your post.  Will do a water change here in the next couple of days and then place all the corals on the sand bed back in the display.  Thanks for the help again.